Sihanoukville y la Isla Secreta
En Sihanoukville he pasado unos 11 días. Llegue buscando sol y playa… y los encontré.
Sihanoukville es una ciudad costera de 170.000 habitantes con las mejores playas de Camboya, eso conlleva turistas, ambiente nocturno y un amplio abanico de posibilidades para relajarte y disfrutar.
Me aloje en el Green Gecko Guest House, 4 $ al día por habitación doble, es un Guest House con internet, restaurante y billar gratis (da mucho juego). Está situado en Victory Hill, una colina que fue centro fundamental de alojamiento de mochileros y que ahora se ha convertido en el pequeño “barrio rojo” de Sihanoukville. A pesar de ello sigue siendo uno de los lugares mas tranquilos de la ciudad y tienes Victory Beach a menos de 5 minutos andando.
En el Guest House alquilé una moto (4 $ / día) para recorrer las distintas playas de la zona. Empecé por Victory Beach, una tranquila playa de arena blanca sin demasiada gente. Luego visité Serendipity Beach (me encanta ese nombre), la gran playa turística, bonita pero con demasiados chiringuitos y gente intentando venderte “lo que sea“. Serendipity se transforma por la noche y la gran cantidad de bares y restaurantes que congrega la convierten en una de las playas con mas ambiente de la ciudad.
Al lado se encuentran Occheuteal y Otres, playas mas tranquilas y tomadas por los locales. En el otro sentido puedes encontrar las playas de Sokha, Independence y Lamberkay. La que mas me gustó fue Independence, con la mezcla perfecta entre tranquilidad y turismo.
En un par de días es fácil recorrerlas todas con una moto.
En Sihanoukville también puedes disfrutar de una gran variedad de restaurantes de todo tipo y deleitarte con la gastronomía camboyana, en la que destacan las curiosas Happy Pizzas. Unas pizzas que pueden hacerte feliz con un “ingrediente secreto” camboyano. Cual sera este secreto gastronómico??, jeje.
Una vez visitada la ciudad y su playas empezó la misión que me había traído hasta aquí. Todo comenzó en Siem Reap cuando conocí a Juanma y Xavi. Tomando unas cervezas empezaron a hablarme de una isla que tenia una de las playas mas espectaculares que nunca habían visto. Eran 8 km de arenas blancas y aguas azules totalmente desiertas. Me enseñaron fotos y algunos vídeos y entonces decidi que tenia que verla con mis propios ojos. El problema fue que no querían decir la localización de “la playa” para que no se perdiese el encanto.
Después de una ardua labor de investigación por mi parte y unas cuantas cervezas, decidieron darme el contacto de la persona que les habló de ella. De esta forma tendría que superar paso a paso las mismas dificultades que ellos sufrieron para encontrarla. Suena a película?… pues continuo.
El primer paso era encontrar a Paco, un español que ha vivido los últimos 16 años en Asia y que ahora regenta un restaurante de comida española en Sihanoukville. Fue fácil. Después de alguna cerveza y saborear los mejores delicatessen de nuestra gastronomía (bravas y pincho de tortilla), Paco me proporcionó las coordenadas de esa playa sin nombre y “la forma de llegar a ella“.
Para ayudarme en tan complicada empresa, y abaratar gastos, recluté a algunos de los mas valientes y aguerridos viajeros de la zona. El grupo quedó formado por Jon (Euskadi), Marta (Galiza), Santiago (Virginia) y Pak (Hortaleza).
Para continuar la aventura debíamos encontrar un puerto pesquero y algún barco de pescadores que partiese hacia “la isla“. Fueron horas de sufrimiento bajo un sol abrasador pero conseguimos nuestro propósito. Los barcos partían cada 3 días y nos costaría 10 $ por persona. La vuelta seria en 3 o 6 días… si el mar lo permitía. Todo esto lo zanjamos por señas porque nadie de este muelle conocía el lenguaje ingles… y menos aun la lengua castellana.
Dos días después partimos hacia el paraíso… pero no iba a ser todo tan fácil. Tras cerca de 4 horas de viaje en el barco pesquero arribamos a un pequeño pueblo de pescadores en el extremo oriental de “la isla“. Intentaron convencernos de que “la playa” estaba cerca y tuvimos que pasar la noche en aquel lugar dejado de la mano de dios y en el que nadie tenia la mas ligera idea de hablar otro idioma que no fuese el Khmer. Tras disfrutar de una velada maravillosa viendo alguna que otra telenovela khmer en los hogares de los amables aldeanos, e intentar, en balde, enseñarles una parte de nuestro folklore tradicional (el juego de los animales y el intercambio de comida y presentes), decidimos acostarnos con la esperanza de llegar al día siguiente a nuestra ansiada playa.
Cuando nos levantamos botaron una pequeña embarcación para llevarnos a nuestro destino. Imaginad cual fue nuestra sorpresa cuando, con una sonrisa en la boca, nos señalan una minúscula playa cercana al pueblo y nos dicen: “the beach!”. Pero el olor a pescado y el agua marrón no era precisamente lo que andábamos buscando.
Después de largas discusiones, de que intentasen sacarnos mas dinero y a pesar de no habernos entendido absolutamente nada, continuamos el viaje alrededor de la isla.
Cerca de 2 horas después divisé la playa que había visto en las fotos de Juanma y Xavi, “esa es!!!”, grité, pero no me entendieron… solo mi enorme sonrisa les hizo darse cuenta de que casi lo habiamos conseguido, y en ese momento una gota de agua torno mi sonrisa en un gesto de preocupación y el diluvio universal cayó sobre nosotros. Fueron algo mas de 30 minutos navegando bajo una lluvia torrencial y pequeñas olas que ya se hacían notar, yo solo sufría por mi camara y mis fotos (si, lo se, puro egoísmo).
Por suerte llegamos a un pequeño puerto en una de las esquinas de “la playa” y amarramos el bote. Habíamos conseguido nuestro propósito al fin??… aun no, nos quedaba recorrer los 8 km de playa, cargados con los macutos, para llegar al único lugar en el que se podía pernoctar. Cuando paro de llover comenzamos el camino. Fueron cerca de 3 horas y media que sin duda merecieron la pena. En el otro extremo encontramos un Guest House con solo 2 bungalows y cerveza fría, cogimos uno de ellos por 15 $ para los 4, unas latas de BeerLao y disfrutamos durante los días siguientes de los bellos paisajes y atardeceres que nos ofrecía “la playa“.
La verdad es que el lugar es impresionante, en esos días no vimos practicamente a nadie mientras recorríamos los 8 km que nos separaban de la única tienda de la zona (no fuimos previsores y nos quedamos cortos de comida). Pero era maravilloso descubrir cada mañana que teníamos esa preciosa playa sola para nosotros.
Disfrutamos de la tranquilidad y el relax de un lugar en el que no hay nada que hacer, y 4 días después conseguimos otro barco que nos llevaría de vuelta al mundo real. No podíamos volver con el primero debido a la “pequeña discusión” que tuvimos con ellos… bueno, y a los 10 $ que no les pagamos y que nos pedían por el segundo trayecto en el bote.
Fue una aventura muy divertida en la que encontramos uno de esos sitios que piensas que ya no quedan en el mundo. No voy a desvelar aquí el nombre de la isla, ni dare mas facilidades para llegar que las que yo tuve con la esperanza de que no cambie demasiado. El que quiera encontrarla solo necesitara suerte, ganas de aventura, constancia y unas bravas con tortilla en el Paco’s Restaurant (Calle Ekareach, Sihanoukville).
Muchas gracias a Juanma y a Xavi por desvelarme el primer paso del camino al paraíso.
Todas las fotos de la Isla Secreta.
*Esta es una historia basada en hechos reales y todo parecido con la realidad es increíblemente real… aunque no lo parezca.
Tags: aventura, cambodia, camboya, isla, la playa, playa, secreta, sihanoukville
Abril 2nd, 2008 at 2:03 pm
brutal pak!!!
A ver con que mas nos puedes sorprender!
que envidiaaaaaaa!!
Abril 2nd, 2008 at 2:55 pm
segun iba leyendo esto el color de mi piel ha ido pasando del palido de oficina al verde de envidia asquerosa, gracias por compartirlo con todos, sigue disfrutando “cabronazo”.
Abril 2nd, 2008 at 3:22 pm
Jo, que envidia.
Increíbles fotos.
Ya te preguntaré cómo llegar cuando estés de vuelta
Abril 2nd, 2008 at 6:59 pm
Solo una preguntita al respecto: Cuando salias del agua, la arena de la playa tambien se te pegaba a la piel y se metia por dentro del bañador u o en su defecto por los pequeños entresijos del cuerpo… Es que yo siempre he sido muy delicado para esas cosas…
Abril 2nd, 2008 at 7:53 pm
Que buena aventura para contar a tus nietos, jeje.
Gracias por las imagenes, pensé que playas así solo existian a través del photoshop.
Saludos!
Abril 3rd, 2008 at 5:12 am
Me has abierto los ojos…
No tenia un destino claro para las vacaciones de Mayo en China, ya me perdí esta playa durante mi viaje a Camboya, así que….el nombre ese secreto…en privado, jeje
Cuídate!
Abril 3rd, 2008 at 9:24 am
gracias por los comentarios sobre las fotos, la verdad es que la playa era asi, ni photoshop ni na, que no tengo ordenador, las subo sin procesar, directamente como salen de la camara.
pero la playa era tan perfecta que la arena solo era arena cuando querias que fuese, el resto del tiempo era como cesped blandito que no se pegaba al cuerpo… y a veces el mar te entregaba una cervecita bien fria para apagar el calor… si no fuese por los sandflies seria el verdadero paraiso en tierra.
por cierto, la envidia que reflejais hace que ahora me parezca la aventura aun mas guapa.
y seguro que aburrire a mis nietos con esta historia, y a todo el que se me acerque cuando vuelva a espania… solo lo hice pa luego contarlo, en realidad ni disfrute, jeje.
Abril 3rd, 2008 at 2:17 pm
gracias por publicar tu experiencia, con ella y escuchando musica francesa , has conseguido que viaje contigo , gracias .
Abril 4th, 2008 at 10:04 am
Como nos alegramos de leer tu experiencia, supongo que ahora sabes por qué no quisimos desvelarte todos los pasos hasta el lugar, simplemente porque no hay ningún patrón, y el día que lo haya, ya no sera el exclusivo paraiso que hoy es. Grcias por vivir esa aventura hermanada a la nuestra. Un fuerte abrazo!!!
Ah, ya tenemos blog, no tan sofisticado como el tuyo, pero más dinámico y divertido que mis pesados mails, check at http://zapatillasinfronteras.blogspot.com/
Abril 4th, 2008 at 11:20 am
pos aqui teneis el blog de los culpables de toda esta aventura… los famosos juanma y xavi.
a visitarlo to el mundo.
un abrazo chavales!!!
pedrooooooo!!!, que alegria verte por aqui… me alegro de hacerte sentir asi y sabes que por supuesto vienes conmigo, todo el ala onubense estais por aqui. un abrazo enorme!!!!!
Abril 4th, 2008 at 1:03 pm
Ese Paco!!!
Muy guapo como lo has contado, me a hecho recordar toda la aventura!
Abril 4th, 2008 at 2:04 pm
ese Jon!!!!!!!!!!!!!
te encontraste con estos en Siem Reap???, yo los ví en Phnom Pehn, quedé con las gemelas canadienses, me equivoque de hostal buscandolas y me encontre a Marta en el hostal de al lado de el de las gemelas… hay que joderse que casualidades. si te dicen algo es cierto… te robé el mechero.
y la historia, pos la he contado como fue porque si la cuento en plan serio quedaba menos creible… menuda aventura, yo aun sufro por mi camara pensando en el diluvio.
y nada, valiente y aguerrido viajero… que todo continue bien, la suerte te siga acompaniando y las picaduras de mosquito no.
un abrazo y seguimos en contacto!!!
pak.
oye, fuiste al garden village?, cojonudo verdad?
Abril 8th, 2008 at 2:12 pm
Asi que fuiste tu el del mechero eh!! jejeje
Si que vi a estos en Siam Reap! Estuvimos en el Garden Village por 6 noches, volvi a beber y la liamos gorda… El garden village cojonudo porcierto.
Ahora estoy en Phon Phen arreglando mi visa para Laos.
Seguire tus andanzas por aqui..
Un abrazo!
Septiembre 2nd, 2008 at 1:47 am
Me ha encantado tu relato, aunque desde que existe el Google Earth con el Panoramio… pocos rincones son secretos
Octubre 21st, 2008 at 4:41 am
A mi tambien me gustaria vivir tu aventura por lo que lei lo pasaste los dias mas maravillosos de tu vida que siempre quedaran gravadas en tu memoria
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 12:15 pm
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comment5, Sitemap81
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 2:17 pm
comment6, Sitemap112
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 3:02 pm
comment5, Sitemap78
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, =))),
Mayo 8th, 2009 at 3:19 pm
comment3, Sitemap101
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 3:34 pm
comment3, Sitemap90
((, Sitemap105
, %-]], Sitemap90
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,
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 4:34 pm
comment3, Sitemap24
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 6:06 pm
comment3, Sitemap73
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 7:16 pm
comment3, Sitemap15
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 9:13 pm
comment1, Sitemap55
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 10:56 pm
comment4, Sitemap95
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Mayo 8th, 2009 at 11:18 pm
comment3, Sitemap59
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 12:40 am
comment2, Sitemap92
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 12:57 am
comment6, Sitemap19
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 1:36 am
comment3, Sitemap25
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 2:58 am
comment3, Sitemap38
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 3:17 am
comment4, Sitemap30
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 3:58 am
comment1, Sitemap67
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 5:34 am
comment4, Sitemap28
((, Sitemap97
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 5:47 am
comment2, Sitemap66
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 6:31 am
comment6, Sitemap17
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 7:12 am
comment5, Sitemap90
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 8:31 am
comment3, Sitemap103
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 9:19 am
comment4, Sitemap61
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 10:07 am
comment1, Sitemap40
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 10:07 am
comment1, Sitemap79
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 10:14 am
comment6, Sitemap19
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 10:59 am
comment2, Sitemap121
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 11:42 am
comment3, Sitemap123
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 1:51 pm
comment2, Sitemap94
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 3:19 pm
comment2, Sitemap93
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, %-)), Sitemap47
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 3:59 pm
comment3, Sitemap2
PP, Sitemap119
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 4:54 pm
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 5:31 pm
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 7:02 pm
comment5, Sitemap64
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 7:44 pm
comment6, Sitemap115
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 7:50 pm
comment5, Sitemap74
, 617331, Sitemap54
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 8:10 pm
comment3, Sitemap34
(, Sitemap115
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 9:11 pm
comment5, Sitemap5
, 521, Sitemap124
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 9:13 pm
comment2, Sitemap7
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 9:17 pm
comment2, Sitemap55
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 9:40 pm
comment1, Sitemap115
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 10:14 pm
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 10:23 pm
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 11:24 pm
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Mayo 9th, 2009 at 11:48 pm
comment2, Sitemap84
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 12:07 am
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 1:32 am
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 1:32 am
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 3:37 am
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 4:19 am
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 4:19 am
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 4:19 am
comment3, Sitemap85
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 4:40 am
comment1, Sitemap88
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 5:02 am
comment5, Sitemap105
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 5:44 am
comment1, Sitemap28
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 6:24 am
comment2, Sitemap118
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 6:26 am
comment2, Sitemap119
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 7:07 am
comment6, Sitemap18
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 9:27 am
comment1, Sitemap115
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 10:40 am
comment2, Sitemap83
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 11:24 am
comment5, Sitemap33
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 12:03 pm
comment1, Sitemap35
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 12:05 pm
comment4, Sitemap92
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 12:57 pm
comment1, Sitemap2
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 1:25 pm
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 1:38 pm
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 2:46 pm
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 4:16 pm
comment1, Sitemap123
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 5:00 pm
comment2, Sitemap40
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 6:27 pm
comment1, Sitemap72
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 7:11 pm
comment3, Sitemap36
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 7:56 pm
comment6, Sitemap120
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 8:46 pm
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 10:07 pm
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 10:13 pm
comment1, Sitemap5
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 10:35 pm
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 10:54 pm
comment6, Sitemap59
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 10:55 pm
I want to say – thank you for this!
Mayo 10th, 2009 at 10:58 pm
comment5, Sitemap121
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 10:58 pm
comment6, Sitemap51
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 11:32 pm
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 11:41 pm
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Mayo 10th, 2009 at 11:48 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 12:48 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 1:40 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 1:55 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 2:33 am
comment3, Sitemap88
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 3:18 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 3:58 am
comment3, Sitemap38
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 4:36 am
comment3, Sitemap69
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 5:09 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 5:14 am
comment3, Sitemap44
P, Sitemap90
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 5:16 am
comment4, Sitemap21
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 5:18 am
comment6, Sitemap32
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 5:54 am
comment6, Sitemap49
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 5:55 am
comment6, Sitemap26
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 5:56 am
comment1, Sitemap0
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 7:12 am
comment2, Sitemap69
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 7:49 am
comment5, Sitemap95
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 7:51 am
comment6, Sitemap117
DD, Sitemap34
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 8:29 am
comment6, Sitemap110
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 8:58 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 9:08 am
comment1, Sitemap81
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 9:09 am
comment4, Sitemap31
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 9:49 am
comment5, Sitemap38
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 9:51 am
comment4, Sitemap63
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 10:19 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 10:28 am
comment5, Sitemap36
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:09 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:10 am
comment5, Sitemap78
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:47 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:49 am
comment6, Sitemap27
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:55 am
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 12:21 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 1:07 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 1:26 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 2:24 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 3:12 pm
comment5, Sitemap60
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 3:14 pm
I bookmarked this guestbook. Thank you for good job!
Mayo 11th, 2009 at 3:23 pm
Great site. Keep doing.
Mayo 11th, 2009 at 3:42 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 3:55 pm
comment5, Sitemap58
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 4:36 pm
I want to say – thank you for this!
Mayo 11th, 2009 at 5:03 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 5:32 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 6:32 pm
Perfect work!
Mayo 11th, 2009 at 6:40 pm
comment4, Sitemap3
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 7:25 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 7:51 pm
comment6, Sitemap62
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 9:46 pm
comment2, Sitemap9
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 10:25 pm
comment1, Sitemap25
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:18 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:37 pm
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:40 pm
comment1, Sitemap80
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:44 pm
comment5, Sitemap111
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Mayo 11th, 2009 at 11:46 pm
comment3, Sitemap115
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 12:23 am
comment4, Sitemap44
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 12:23 am
comment2, Sitemap3
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 1:02 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 1:05 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 3:11 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 3:41 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 3:46 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 3:55 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 4:01 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 4:08 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 4:24 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 4:32 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 6:23 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 7:08 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 7:44 am
comment2, Sitemap100
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 8:22 am
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Mayo 12th, 2009 at 8:26 am
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