Lívingston tiene una población de 17.000 habitantes, esta pequeña ciudad Garífuna es la única del país sin conexión por carretera, la única con playas en el Caribe, la única en la que te sorprendes viendo que los «chapines» que allí habitan «son negros y juegan al basket» (como bien me dijo Quiros).
Solo puedes alcanzarla en bote desde Puerto Barrios, Río Dulce o Punta Gorda (Belice), y esta última es la única que se parece en algo a Lívingston, porque está en Belice.
Cuando llegué estaba lloviendo y como la previsión meteorológica apuntaba que continuaría así por un tiempo decidí partir al día siguiente… no pude disfrutar demasiado del par de playas que tiene y no encontré mucho más que hacer allí, sobre todo lloviendo.
No me pareció un destino atractivo, pero si peculiar. Es como estar fuera de Guatemala, la población proviene de los esclavos africanos que fueron «importados» por la corona británica hasta las revueltas de 1795 en St Vincent, y fue la única parte del país que linda con el Caribe que Guatemala consiguió quedarse tras la independencia de Belice en 1973, vamos, lo que los Británicos les dejaron quedarse porque Belice no se independizó del Reino Unido hasta 1981, momento en que pasó a ser un país divido de Guatemala por unas fronteras hechas con tiralíneas.
Dicen que la travesia desde Río Dulce es muy bonita y que el lago Izabal es un pasote, me quedé con ganas de visitar esa zona pero mi ruta era entrar en Belice para luego volver a Guate por El Petén.
Y tal y como llegué… me fui. En barco a Punta Gorda (20$ – 1h) y de allí a Belice City en bus (7h – 13$) y luego al Cayo Caulker (2h – 8$ en bote). ¿De verdad había salido de Guatemala para entrar en Belice?. Por el cambio desde Livingston no lo parecía pero tengo que decir que la diferencia con El Petén (Guate) fue brutal.
Foto vía: David d’O’s
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