Buceo con el tiburón zorro en Malapascua (Filipinas) – Thresher Shark

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Son las 4:30 de la mañana cuando suena la alarma del teléfono y me levanto, de nuevo, entre aturdido y enfadado. Llevo más de un año con este ritual y no consigo acostumbrarme. Recojo mis cosas como alma en pena y en una oscuridad absoluta salgo sin hacer mucho ruido hacia el centro de . Entonces pienso: -¿quién me mandaría a mí enamorarme de este bicho?-. Y no lo digo por la posibilidad de haber dormido acompañado, con tal madrugón es complicado que la noche anterior el Tanduay hubiese tenido tiempo de obstaculizar los sentidos hasta ese nivel (igual esto es más una esperanza que una afirmación).
La razón última y primera de los madrugones constantes, ese “bicho” del que me enamoré hace ya más de 5 años, se llama Alopias pelagicus, o más comúnmente conocido en castellano como tiburón zorro o azotador ( shark en inglés).

Su principal característica es la aleta caudal, una cola que abarca hasta un 50% de los 4 metros a los que puede llegar esta especie de tiburón zorro, a veces es tan larga como la longitud total de su cuerpo. La usa para golpear a sus presas, su forma de cazar está definida por su cuerpo. Tiene una boca demasiado pequeña como para poder atrapar la captura mientras nada y se alimenta de peces pequeños (sardinas, arenques..) que aturde con un latigazo de esta aleta caudal que alcanza velocidades de hasta 50 kilómetros por hora. Un espectáculo bastante complicado de disfrutar ya que como buen pelágico vive la mayor parte del tiempo a profundidades de entre 300 y 500 metros.

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Los 40 minutos de viaje en banka (barco tradicional filipino) desde hasta Monad Shoal son el tiempo necesario para acabar de despejarme. Contemplar el amanecer con un café en la mano y la imaginación ya bajo el agua, el coco anticipando acontecimientos (¿habrá corriente?, ¿como estará hoy la visibilidad?, ¿me dejé la luz del baño encendida?…) y el deseo de un encuentro mejor que el anterior crean la excitación suficiente para que parezca que hace horas que llevo despierto.
Monad Shoal es una isla hundida, un pináculo mayor que Malapascua (1,5 km de ancho y 2 de largo) donde se encuentran las estaciones de limpieza que nos permiten disfrutar del zorro. Los tiburones suben cada mañana a primera hora para desparasitarse y que los peces limpiadores hagan su trabajo. Para poder ver a las profundidades en las que viven tienen unos ojos negros muy grandes que son bastante sensibles a la luz y en cuanto el sol de la mañana cobra fuerza regresan a la oscuridad que los protege, por eso es necesario madrugar, no es que a los buceadores nos guste acostarnos a las 10 de la noche y menos un sábado con la disco-party de Malapascua en pleno apogeo. Tal vez por eso yo tengo la teoría de que los domingos se ven menos.

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Desde que salto al agua la emoción me embriaga y la adrenalina fluye, no es miedo, no existen ataques registrados de este animal, su fisionomía no le permitiría intentarlo con una presa tan grande como un humano. Es entusiasmo, es impaciencia, son las ganas de poder estar cara a cara con una especie que no ha evolucionado en siglos, porque no lo necesita, porque es perfecto. Entonces comienzo el descenso analizando la más mínima diferencia con otras veces, a los pocos metros puedo ver el borde del muro. La plataforma de Monad está a entre 12 y 14 metros de profundidad y de ahí se baja a las estaciones que están entre 24 y 30 metros. Los tiempos de fondo en aire son cortos pero suficientes aunque parezcan fugaces, si quiero más no lo dudo, nitrox, una mezcla con mayor porcentaje de oxígeno alarga las posibilidades de que esa vez no se me escape, de conseguir la foto que quería, aunque siempre acabe pensando que la siguiente va a ser mejor.
La probabilidad de verlo en este punto de es grande, según mi propia experiencia diría que de entre un 80 y un 90%. Tal vez lo he tenido delante 8 o 9 de cada 10 veces que he bajado, unas veces cerca, otras muy cerca, otras ha sido solo una sombra, una elegante silueta perdiéndose en el infinito del azul. Otras veces lo he visto acompañado, hasta 3 y 4 individuos a la vez, otras en mucha compañía, varias decenas de buceadores con ojos rasgados aleteando sin control. Y cada vez es una experiencia distinta y única, es naturaleza en estado puro, en un lugar donde vive en libertad, no se le alimenta ni se permite perseguirlos o interactuar con ellos. Las linternas y los flashes de cámara están prohibidos con el respeto como principal objetivo. Siempre hay excepciones, gente que se salta las normas a la torera, que no están preparados, que no tienen un instructor o DM que se preocupe por ellos, pero suelen ser casos contados, que se acentúan en las temporadas de mayor afluencia (de diciembre a mayo).

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Cuando me encuentro con él es como si el tiempo se detuviese (hasta que me empieza a pitar la alarma de la deco), lo observo ensimismado llegando al extremo de haberme olvidado algunas veces que llevaba la cámara en la mano. Que mejores recuerdos que los que guarda el cerebro, pienso para justificarme. Intento fijarme en los detalles; las hendiduras branquiales, los ojos, la boca entreabierta, su aleta dorsal, las pectorales, las pélvicas, la caudal danzando con la corriente… intento averiguar su sexo, los machos tienen 2 penes, uno a cada lado del ano, no es para doble penetración ni esas cosas que veis por internet, que nos conocemos, es para poder inseminar a la hembra con independencia de en que lado esté. Tenemos que pensar que los tiburones no pueden detenerse, necesitan estar en movimiento para filtrar el oxígeno del agua y si no hay corrientes la cópula no debe ser algo demasiado cómodo de realizar nadando. Si a esto le unimos que alcanza la madurez entre los 8 y los 13 años, los largos periodos de gestación (de casi un año) y la pesca sin control es normal que su población haya descendido un 80% en los últimos 15 años. Por suerte la Convención sobre el Comercio Internacional de Especies Amenazadas de Fauna y Flora Silvestres (CITES por sus siglas en inglés) lo ha incluido desde octubre de 2016 en el apéndice II de modo que, y cito: «se aumentará su protección incrementando las restricciones a su comercio internacional, para garantizar que su exportación sea sostenible y legal». Queda mucho trabajo por hacer para concienciar al planeta de que los tiburones no son peligrosos y su importancia para la vida marina. Al ser humano le cuesta entender que nada es prescindible en el mundo animal, cada uno tiene su labor y los tiburones regulan el océano. Son los reyes de las profundidades.
En todo el año 2015 solo 8 personas murieron en el mundo por ataque de tiburón. Si tenemos en cuenta que más de 300 fallecieron por caerse de una silla, que cerca de 12 perdieron la vida por caída de una maquina de cocacola (vending machine) o las personas que mueren cada fin de semana por accidente de tráfico me parece que no tenemos nada claros nuestro peligros. Lo que yo tengo claro es lo peligroso que es el ser humano, según BBC: 100.000.000 de tiburones son pescados cada año.

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

La rutina de mis últimos 16 meses ha girado entorno a esta preciosidad. Mis horarios, mis conversaciones, mis nuevas adquisiciones (el housing para la cámara), todo dependía de él. De como disfrutar más en cada encuentro. El fruto lo recogí el 25 de febrero en uno de esos días donde se alinearon los astros, las circunstancias se pusieron de nuestra parte y junto a Vero, Alberto y Crystall tuve la mejor inmersión de mi vida. Fue mi personal despedida, la celebración de otro cambio de etapa con una fiesta submarina de la que salieron muchas de las fotos que podéis ver en este post. No es la definitiva, he vuelto a visitarlo desde entonces… y volveré a hacerlo, la idea es seguir viviendo en Malapascua pero ya no como instructor de buceo, al menos de momento.

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Algunos más datos sobre el Alopias pelagicus:

– Es un animal ovovivíparo, pone huevos pero estos se incuban y eclosionan en el cuerpo de la madre. Una vez eclosionados se alimentan de los huevos rotos, huevos infértiles y los hermanos más débiles. El ratio de nacimientos por gestación es de 1 o 2 individuos.

– Su color puede parecer azulado o plateado pero en realidad lo que hace es reflectar el entorno, si lo ves en mitad del azul o a poca profundidad tiene un color más claro que sobre el arrecife, esto le permite mimetizarse para poder cazar sin ser visto claramente en la distancia.

– El nombre viene de la palabra griega alopex que significa zorro.

– Sube a las estaciones de limpieza para desparasitarse y si no lo ha conseguido del todo o quedan rémoras que no consigue despegarse usa su potencia para saltar fuera del agua. He tenido la suerte de presenciarlo en alguna que otra ocasión y es un espectáculo increíble.

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Thresher Shark, tiburón zorro o azotador

Si quieres sentir esta experiencia y disfrutar del encuentro con este animal en el único lugar del mundo donde está casi asegurado tendrás que venir a Malapascua, una pequeña isla en las Filipinas. He estado 16 meses trabajando como instructor en Buceo Malapascua y es sin duda mi recomendación para este buceo tanto si eres buceador certificado como si es la primera vez que lo intentas, eso sí, hacen falta unos 4 días de curso para llegar hasta él si nunca te has sumergido antes.

Yo por aquí estaré seguro, para la happy hour en Ocean Vida o para tomar la última en Maldito´s entre historias de tiburones… si es que no me he animado a hacerme un fundive al día siguiente y a eso de las 10 pm ya estoy acostado y ansioso por levantarme, entre aturdido y enfadado para preguntarme una vez más : ¿quién me mandaría a mí enamorarme de este bicho? .

200 comentarios en “Buceo con el tiburón zorro en Malapascua (Filipinas) – Thresher Shark”

  1. Me encanta! Tuve la oportunidad de bajar a Monad Shoal en 2014, cuando aún estaba sacándome el open water. Quinta inmersión de mi vida y ahí estaba, a 28 metros, frente a aquel «bicho» precioso…. inolvidabe!!! 🙂

  2. Sin duda una bonita experiencia, soy de las personas que ama viajar, nunca eh buceado . Pero no me caería mal probar tu articulo esta genial, un Saludo desde Perú.

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