Foto CC vía: The Library of Congress
Desde Cayo Caulker salí camino de Belice City en barco (1 h o 2 por 8$ más o menos), había decidido ir para Guatemala y lo hice cruzando la frontera entre Benque Viejo del Carmen (Belice) y Melchor de Mencos (Guatemala).
Llegar a Benque Viejo fueron unas 3 o 4 horas en bus desde Belice City (6$), parando en San Ignacio.
Una vez en allí hay que tomar un taxi compartido hasta la frontera y lo mismo hasta Melchor de Mencos. Son taxis baratos, lo caro es salir de Belice. Hay una tasa que no recuerdo si son 20 o 30 dolares, en concepto de ECOTASA para el turista. Es una información que yo no conocí hasta la misma frontera.
Y saliendo de Belice me pasó una cosa muy curiosa. En el autobús camino de la frontera se subió en San Ignacio una familia de Amish… si estos tipos raros que siguen viviendo en el pasado, con sus barbas, sus sombreros y su amor a dios.
Simplemente me llamó la atención verlos y los locales me comentaron que hay una comunidad grande cerca de San Ignacio.
Total, que nada más cruzar la frontera se me acerca un chico y me ofrece llevarme hasta Melchor de Mencos, negocio con él, consigo buen precio y una vez que estoy metiendo la mochila en el coche me pregunta si he perdido algo de dinero… yo no entiendo nada y empiezo a rebuscarme en los bolsillos. Me faltaban unos 30 dolares americanos y algunos Quetzales guatemaltecos que ya había cambiado, entonces le pregunto como lo sabia y me cuenta que vio como se me caia algo del bolsillo cuando saqué el pasaporte en la frontera, y al rato vio a los Amish cogerlo y guardárselo al bolsillo… me quedé alucinado y con las mismas salte dentro del taxi y le grité: ¡Siga a esos Amish!… que ellos iban andando, y yo siempre había querido decir una frase así. El chaval entró en el coche, puso música de persecuciones y si no hubiésemos ido en un 4 latas que no pasaba de 40 km/h seguro que hubiese salido haciendo ruedas.
A los pocos minutos los encontramos en la carretera, le dije al taxista que parase a su lado y les pregunté si habían encontrado dinero en el suelo, se miraron entre ellos y directamente sacaron cada uno de sus bolsillos la parte que se habían repartido y me lo devolvieron mirando al suelo… ahí les pregunte que, si habían visto como se me caía porqué no me avisaron… y siguieron mirando al suelo. Debe ser que su amor a dios no les permitía desperdiciar mi involuntaria limosna, o que se tomaban muy en serio el «Dios proveerá» o que la hipocresía de esa sociedad les permite renunciar a las comodidades modernas pero no renunciar al moderno DOLAR ($$$$$$$$$).
El taxista les gritó ladrones, pisó el acelerador a fondo y salió nuevamente a cámara lenta.
Y me dejó en el lugar de donde salían las «minivan» hacia Flores, en Melchor de Mencos, un pueblo curioso en el que la frontera con Belice corta el campo de fútbol por la línea de medio campo, y el pueblo entero en 2.
La parte de guate está aislada del mundo, lejos del resto de poblaciones del país, la parte de Belice cerca de poblaciones grandes. En la parte guate no hay infraestructuras, en la parte beliceña hay luz, agua y una carretera buena para entrar y salir.
Los policías fronterizos beliceños van a la parte guate a tomar las cervezas, es más barato.
Todo es un mismo pueblo, Melchor de Mencos, un lugar EN MEDIO… de ninguna parte.
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