Todo empezó hace muchos años en una estación de tren. Eran tiempos donde la comunicación no verbal estaba limitada en el espacio y el transporte autopropulsado avanzaba sobre raíles. El ser humano se proponía retos imposibles convencido de que sería capaz de vencer a la naturaleza, ilusos irredentos, aún lo seguimos pensando.
Fue en 1897 cuando el gobierno ecuatoriano comenzó la construcción del «ferrocarril más difícil del mundo«, una línea que ascendía en zig-zag sobre una pared casi vertical llamada «la Nariz del Diablo«. Hicieron falta años de trabajo y la vida de muchos obreros jamaicanos hasta conseguir que se inaugurase en 1901. Para superar el desnivel la locomotora avanza hacia delante y marcha atrás desde Alausí a Sibambe a través de un complicado entramado de vías y rocas.
Y es en su historia donde se termina el romanticismo de este trayecto en tren. El resto… bastante aburrido.
Llegábamos desde Baños y decidimos hacer una parada en Riobamba (baluba balambambu) para probar esta obra de ingeniería antes de continuar en dirección a Cuenca y bueno… pues eso, que allí paramos.
De Riobamba no recuerdo casi nada en especial, un hostal cutre, la zona de la estación… vías de tren y un nombre que daba juego para bromear. Del tren puedo decir que me pareció una línea turística que no sale demasiado barata (35$ i/v) en la que echas una mañana entre jubilados europeos y algún otro despistado. Los paisajes son bonitos y ver la que montaron para subir hasta allí es cuanto menos curioso… pero vamos, que si hubiese visto un par de fotos y alguien me hubiese contado la historia casi me hubiese bastado.
En la foto se puede comprobar la verticalidad de la pared, es un tren que avanza sobre un precipicio pero que no termina de provocar la «descarga de adrenalina» con que lo anuncian… vamos, ni nada que se le parezca, me recuerdo bostezando.
Ya no dejan subir al techo del vagón y desde dentro las sensaciones se amortiguan, supongo que es una de las razones que lo hacen menos apasionantes de lo que nos pudo parecer en un principio, además pregunté al comprar el billete si podría subir y me dijeron que sin problemas. Por eso creo que picamos.
Con este post no pretendo más que ahorrar 35 pavetes a aquellos que duden a la hora de hacerlo, estas son las fotos que yo hubiese necesitado para haber saltado directo de Baños a Cuenca. Además acabé despidiéndome de Ecuador por Vilcabamba (baluba balambambu) y hasta el nombre que daba juego para bromear dejó de ser especial.
¡Pasajeros al tren!
>> Todas las fotos de Ecuador en Flickr <<
(*) Recupero las historias de la vuelta al mundo donde las dejé, en Ecuador. Esto era Abril de 2008… tal vez ahora dejen subir al techo de la locomotora y es una pasada… o no :p .
Veo que todavía te quedan muchas historias que contar de tu gran viaje 😀
pues qué quieres que te diga: gracias al tren sacaste unas fotos bien guapas y nos has regalado esta divertida crónica con tu humor ácido habitual. ¡gracias! (pero sí, lo que debieron doler esos 35 dólares viajando como viajas tú, a lo tirao, sin gastos superfluos…)
¡Qué buena pinta tiene ese tren y qué personajes deben viajar en él!
Un abrazo.
@Pau ya ves si quedan, aún todo Perú, Bolivia, el norte de Chile, NY y Montreal 😉
@Pablo, la verdad es que doler… dolieron, jaja, pero bueno, al menos ha salido esto y fue curioso de ver. ¿Como va por Tanzania cañalla?
@JR es curioso el trenecito, eso si. Personajes… rubios que llevan chanclas con calcetines :p
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