Tajumulco (4.220 m), el techo de América Central – Guatemala

Tajumulco, el techo de América Central

El volcán Tajumulco es, con sus 4.220 metros, el punto más alto de toda América central, el techo de esta región y, hasta ese momento, el punto más alto que había alcanzado yo nunca.
La ruta comienza temprano, partimos en bus desde Xela hasta San Marcos, luego otro bus que te deja en las faldas del volcán y una vez allí comienza la . La meta es llegar hasta los 4.000 metros para hacer noche allí, despertar temprano y hacer cima para ver el amanecer desde ella. Algo espectacular.

Había llegado a Xela con Jonathann y nos apetecía subir sin un grupo organizado, empezamos a buscar agencias y acabamos encontrando un guía. Fueron 2 días/1 noche, las comidas, la tienda, y los sacos por unos 50$ por persona. Un precio bastante, bastante asequible, y lo mejor: poder hacerlo a nuestra marcha sin un grupo.

Los paisajes del inicio, de las zonas habitadas son espectaculares. Es una zona dura, con climas bastante extremos (mucho calor de día y frío en la noche). Hay que pensar que es una montaña de más de 4.000 metros en zona tropical, esto provoca unos contrastes impresionantes.

Durante el camino es normal encontrarse con locales que se desplazan entre pequeñas aldeas, pastorean, o cultivan papa, verduras… y es común que intenten sacarte alguna propina. Yo no soy partidario, como he comentado en post anteriores, pero la pobreza (bastante extrema) de esta zona del país hace muy difícil no sensibilizarse delante de esas caras, de esas miradas, de esas sonrisas.

Pastoreando la voluntad

Con María y Lupe (las niñas de la foto) acordé que si estaban por allí a la bajada les daría la comida que me sobrase, y que intentasen estar seguro porque ya me encargaría yo de que me sobrase «algo«.
A la mañana siguiente no faltaron al encuentro y antes de darles nada les hice prometerme que intentarían convencer a sus padres para que las llevasen a la escuela. Supongo que quedaría en saco roto, que sus padres ni tan siquiera pueden permitirse el transporte para que vayan al colegio más cercano… y no hablemos de los libros, de unas ropas limpias o el resto de material escolar.
Las comida que les di, sobre todo las galletas, creo que les alegró el día, pero hace falta mucho para poder alegrar sus vidas y las del 15% de la población guatemalteca que vive en pobreza extrema, con menos de 1€ diario para subsistir

Tajumulco, el techo de América Central

A media tarde llegamos al lugar donde pasaríamos la noche, a 4.000 metros sobre el nivel del mar, y el atardecer nos regaló un espectáculo alucinante. Ninguno de los 3 habíamos visto algo así antes, y no acabo de tener claro el «porque» de ese «fenómeno«.
(*) Emilio Rey (@digitalmeteo) me aclara que se llaman rayos anticrepusculares, todo tiene un «porqué«, y que grande Emilio, ¡gracias!.

En este punto montamos la tienda, cenamos y nos preparamos para una fría noche. Es conveniente llevar bien de ropa de abrigo ya que los sacos que prestan no son precisamente «calientes«. A mi me costó bastante dormir por el frío.
Y a las 4 de la mañana empezamos la subida del último tramo. Esos 220 metros de desnivel son casi los más duros de toda la subida. Se hacen en la noche, con luz de linternas (o la luna, tuvimos suerte de tenerla llena), triscando entre piedras y ya se va notando la altura con unos primeros síntomas de aumento del ritmo de la respiración debido a la falta de oxígeno.
El amanecer fue uno de los más bonitos que he visto nunca. Desde lo alto de Tajumulco puede verse México, y el Pacífico, son unas vistas espectaculares y unido a que fue mi primer 4.000, la experiencia se convirtió en imborrable.
Eso y la cantidad de «fenómenos» que pudimos contemplar ese día:

Tajumulco, el techo de América Central

La columna de humo que provocan las explosiones del volcán Santiaguito, uno de los volcanes activo que hay en Guatemala y que suele expulsar los gases acumulados a primera hora de la mañana, vamos, como un niño pequeño.
Tal vez se deba a su corta vida, se formo en los inicios del siglo XX debido a una erupción del volcán Santa María.

Tajumulco, el techo de América Central

La sombra del propio Tajumulco. Es una imagen que había visto en muchas fotos, la sombra que provocan las montañas al amanecer, pero que nunca había tenido la suerte de contemplar. Tal vez porque no he visto muchos amaneceres desde la cima de una montaña de tal envergadura.

Tajumulco, el techo de América Central

La espectacularidad de una luna impresionante que decidió quedarse como regalo añadido.

Tajumulco, el techo de América Central

El mar de nubes, un «fenómeno» bastante común en los valles de baja altura (entre los 500 y 1.500 metros) y que está causado por vientos marítimos cargados de humedad en su sector inferior.

Tajumulco, el techo de América Central

Y el más espectacular de todos estos «fenómenos» fue el de estos señores con sombrero de vaquero transportando una especie de cables a unos 3.000 y pico metros de altura. ¿Estarían llevando ADSL hasta la cima?, jeje.

Tajumulco, el techo de América Central

La experiencia me pareció altamente recomendable para el disfrute de la vista y los sentidos, pero también lo fue en el plano personal, debido sobre todo a la buena compañía que tuve la suerte de disfrutar: Jonathann y Manuel.

Reventados volvimos a Xela. Nos habían dejado una casa donde poder reposar y repasar la ascensión… pero esto ya es otra historia.

>> Todas las fotos de Guatemala <<

1.698 comentarios en “Tajumulco (4.220 m), el techo de América Central – Guatemala”

  1. Dado que me quedé a las puertas de entrar en guatemala es un buen lugar donde volver a empezar a viajar, no? Impresionante esa neblina abajo en los valles…

  2. Si, si, muy buen lugar, sacarás unas fotos impresionantes… tu que vas «tripodizado» lo disfrutarás como un enano (se que acabarás pasando por allí por eso te hablo en futuro y no en condicional, jeje).

    Y la neblina… que te voy a decir, una pasada. Si las fotos molan ver la estampa en la realidad era como para quedarse horas mirando atontado.

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